Friday, March 02, 2012

Carve the flow

"Well, in regards to surf­ing, I’ve learned that there is always another wave com­ing. Trans­lated that means there is always tomor­row. No mat­ter how badly you get caught inside, if you can just hang in there and keep pad­dling, the set is going to pass and there will be a lull after­wards. So don’t give up, just take your pound­ing, wait until the set passes, then make your move." Surfer Gerry Lopez liquid salt interview